Exploring Istria: Croatia’s Hidden Jewel You Won't Want to Miss
When we met up with our Croatian neighbors and we told them we were finally visiting their home country, their first recommendation was not to skip Istria. And we’re so glad we didn’t! Imagine a place with ancient Roman ruins, charming harbor towns, and medieval hilltop villages. While Dubrovnik and Split may steal the spotlight in Croatia’s tourism scene, Istria offers a quieter, more intimate experience.This peninsula is a hidden treasure that blends history, culture, and natural beauty.
What makes Istria special?
A Geographical and Cultural Gateway
Pula Arena
Nestled in the northern Adriatic Sea, bordered by Slovenia, and within easy reach of Italy, the Istrian Peninsula is a crossroads of cultures, where Italian, Slavic, and Austro-Hungarian influences converge to create a destination that’s both unique and undeniably European. Italian is spoken alongside Croatian while Venetian-style architecture stands alongside Slavic traditions. And the cuisine is a Mediterranean dream.
Food and Wine: A Culinary Paradise
White Truffle Risotto at Konoba Mondo in Motovun
Istria is a foodie’s haven, renowned for its gastronomic treasures. Truffles, particularly the elusive white variety, are found in abundance here, drawing chefs and gourmands from around the world. The region’s olive oils are considered among the best globally, while the local wines—like crisp Malvazija and bold Teran—perfectly complement its culinary offerings. Pair these with Istria’s farm-to-table ethos, and every meal becomes an experience.
How much time do I need to visit Istria?
You can visit Istria in as little as 2 days. One of Istria’s most captivating features is its dual landscapes: the azure coastline and the rolling green hills which are all within short distances of each other. However, don’t be surprised if the idyllic towns draw you in and make you wish you had more time to linger!
What’s the best way to get around Istria?
Rovinj Riva restaurants
Istria’s well-connected roads and compact size make it easy to explore, but choosing the right mode of transportation is key.
Car rental
Renting a car is the best way to explore Istria at your own pace. The roads are well-maintained, and having a car allows you to visit as many towns as you wish without hassle. Just remember to book your rental in advance, especially during the peak summer season. Better yet, make it part of an off-peak Croatian road trip itinerary!
Public Transportation
While buses connect major towns, they are less frequent for smaller villages. Public transport can also be limiting if you want to see multiple destinations in one day.
Cycling
For active travelers, Istria is a cycling paradise. Many routes take you through scenic vineyards, olive groves, and coastal trails. But you will want to limit this option to late spring, summer or early autumn since rain and fog could decrease visibility and make for a challenging, if not treacherous, ride.
What are the best towns to visit in Istria?
Rovinj: A Coastal Fairytale
Rovinj boutiques
Rovinj harborside cafe
Located on Istria’s western coastline, Rovinj is known as one of the most romantic destinations in Croatia. Originally an island until it was connected to the mainland in the 18th century, it still retains a sense of seclusion and timelessness. As you explore, you’ll notice Venetian influences in the architecture—arched windows, ornate balconies, and coats of arms etched into walls—reminders of Rovinj’s time under Venetian rule.
Rovinj’s waterfront is undeniably one of its highlights. Spend time walking along the Riva, the town’s bustling promenade, where charming fishing boats bob in the harbor. But Rovinj’s Old Town is a maze of winding streets, steep staircases, and hidden courtyards, with a captivating payoff at every turn. We particularly enjoyed lingering at Augusto, a specialty roaster, over a delicious cup of coffee, and popping into galleries on Grisia Street.
Augusto specialty coffee shop
Truffle pizza at Stari Grad Pizzeria in Rovinj
Perched atop the highest hill in Rovinj, St. Euphemia’s Church is the town’s most recognizable landmark. According to legend, St. Euphemia was a young woman from Chalcedon (modern-day Turkey) who was tortured and martyred for her faith in the 4th century. Her remains were placed in a sarcophagus, which mysteriously washed ashore in Rovinj during a storm. Locals struggled to move the sarcophagus until a young boy, guided by divine inspiration, succeeded. The relics were then enshrined in the church, and St. Euphemia became the town’s patron saint. Many visit the church for the stunning views from its tower, but be warned: the climb up the rickety and winding stairs can be quite unnerving.
Rovinj is also a paradise for foodies, with its cuisine reflecting the bounty of the Adriatic and the fertile Istrian soil. Options abound, from Spaghetti allo Scoglio (spaghetti with mixed seafood) to fresh octopus salad. We ended up at Stari Grad Pizzeria, with tables in a tiny alley leading to the waterfront and decadent Neapolitan-style pies with fresh and unique toppings. We couldn’t resist the decadent truffle pizza. When in Istria, right?
Pula: Where History Comes Alive
Inside Pula Arena
Pula Arena
Pula, the largest city in Istria, is a destination where ancient history and modern seaside charm collide. Known for its impressive Roman heritage, Pula is a history lover’s dream. In the 2nd century BC, the Romans conquered the area, and Pula became a significant Roman port and commercial center. It was during this period that many of Pula's iconic Roman monuments were constructed.
At the heart of Pula lies the Pula Arena, one of the most well-preserved Roman amphitheaters in the world. Built in the 1st century AD during the reign of Emperor Vespasian, it could seat up to 20,000 spectators who gathered for gladiator battles and public spectacles. Today, the arena hosts concerts, film screenings, and events, such as the Pula Film Festival, where you can enjoy a cinematic experience under the stars. We signed up for a Pula sunset walking tour which was cancelled due to potential inclement weather, but lucked out with an ancient amphitheater almost entirely to ourselves.
Arch of the Sergii at the entrance to Sergijevaca Street in Pula
Temple of Augustus at the Pula Forum
Sergijevaca Street, the city’s main artery, is packed with cafes and shops and perfect for a leisurely stroll. At its entrance, you’ll come across the Arch of the Sergii, a triumphal arch built in the 1st century BC. This ornate structure was commissioned by the wealthy Sergii family to honor their military achievements and has since become one of Pula’s most iconic landmarks.
Located in the city center, Pula’s Forum is home to the Temple of Augustus, a well-preserved structure dedicated to the first Roman emperor. This temple, with its elegant columns and intricate carvings, now houses a museum. Though the museum is small – just a single room – there are a number of surprising and impressive artifacts spread around the space. It won’t take more than a few minutes to explore, and it’s definitely worth the time if you can spare it.
Motovun: A Hilltop Haven
St. Stephen’s Church and Bell Tower in Motovun
Foggy view of the Motovun hillside from the skywalk
Perched atop a hill in the heart of Istria’s lush countryside, Motovun is a medieval village that has to be seen to be believed. Encircled by ancient stone walls and offering sweeping views of vineyards, olive groves, and the Mirna River Valley, this enchanting town feels like a journey back in time.
Evidence of Roman influence remains in the region, although the Motovun we see today began to take shape in the Middle Ages. In the 10th century, the town was part of the Holy Roman Empire, serving as a defensive outpost due to its commanding view. But like much of Istria, Motovun fell under the control of the Venetian Republic in the 13th century. The town’s walls and gates were fortified during this period, along with the construction of the main square and public buildings like the Municipal Palace, one of the oldest in Istria. Its walls are perfect for taking in breathtaking panoramic views of the landscape. If you happen to find yourself there on a foggy morning like we did, don’t despair. It’s still a perfect perch from which to enjoy the peaceful surroundings.
Mural depicting beloved Veli Jože character from local Croatian novel
Shrimp and white truffle pasta from Konoba Mondo in Motovun
But truth be told, what brought us to Motovun was the promise of its gastronomic delights. It is the epicenter of Istria’s truffle culture, thanks to the surrounding Motovun Forest, which is a treasure trove of black and white truffles. This abundance has drawn chefs from around the world, and Motovun is home to several renowned restaurants where you can partake in this culinary delight. We dined at Konoba Mondo, an Anthony Bourdain favorite, which featured myriad mouthwatering truffle dishes from appetizers to desserts (panna cotta with white truffles, anyone?). And though we didn’t have the time to participate, we learned you can even join a guided truffle-hunting tour with specially trained dogs, which usually includes a tasting session, of course! The surrounding vineyards also produce some of Istria’s finest wines, and the area’s olive oils are often ranked among the best in the world. It might be a good idea to stock up on gifts while you’re here.
Pro Tip: Motovun’s center is closed to external traffic, so all visitors have to park in the lot behind the upper cemetery in Zone 1. Most hotels offer a pickup and drop off service to get you from the parking lot to your accommodations. If you decide to hoof it, make sure you can provide your license plate information so the hotel can register your vehicle during your stay.
Conclusion
While Croatia’s southern Dalmatian coast is undoubtedly stunning, it’s also heavily trafficked by tourists. Istria, by contrast, offers a quieter, more authentic experience. Whether you’re savoring truffle-infused dishes, wandering medieval towns, or simply soaking in the breathtaking landscapes, Istria offers an unforgettable experience. Add Istria to your Croatia travel itinerary, and prepare to fall in love with this hidden gem of the Adriatic.
